Wednesday, 4 February 2015

The Backpacker's Guide to Cuba


Cuba has always been a place of intrigue and interest to backpackers and with the recent reconciliation talks with the US, this little Caribbean country is now high on a lot of travellers’ bucket lists.  Hence, along with my two side-kicks, Irina and Oskar, I have put together a list of things that will help you backpack your way through Cuba and get the most bang for your buck.  So whether you’re a novice backpacker, been doing it for years or just a budget conscious tourist, this guide is perfect for you!
However, before I begin, I’d like to stress that while it’s great to travel cheap and barter when you think you’re getting ripped off, these people are living on absolute pennies in a country where prices continue to increase.  If you still think you’re getting a good deal and would be willing to pay $5 for that necklace in any other country, then maybe it’s ok not to barter to the absolute limits just because you know you can.  A substantial tip for an incredible meal under $2, is not much compared to what you would pay elsewhere.  Just a little humanitarian pep talk! :-) Ok, on to the tips…

The awesome threesome - great travel buddies :-)
1.       Travel with someone else

In Cuba, there are no such things as hostels.  Ok, well in Havana they have “hostels” where you can pay by the bed, but it is just an apartment building with bunk beds.  Saying that, anywhere else in Cuba, you stay at Casa Particulares, which are guesthouses and you pay by the room.  Therefore, if you have 2 or 3 or even 4 of you, you can end up saving a lot of money!

2.       But, if you want to travel solo

My advice if you don’t like travelling with friends/family, you’ve got 3 options.  Number 1 – budget more for your accommodation (because you are looking at $20-30 a night, compared to the $8-10 I paid).  Option 2 – stay at the “hostels” in Havana and find a travel buddy that way for the rest of Cuba.  Or the 3rd option - which is interesting - is try Couchsurfing.  Couchsurfing (anywhere else in the world) is a free mode of accommodation where you can stay with locals on their couch and you can see the sights from a local’s perspective.  In Cuba you still have to pay but I believe it is cheaper than a Casa.

3.       Talk to the locals

The best way to save money is to talk to the locals!! They are the ones that know the best and cheapest places to eat, they are the ones who know the “real” prices of things and they are the ones who can give you a better cultural experience to boot! We met a guy in line for a bar who went and bought us a bottle of rum and mixers for $5; we met a couple who led us to our favourite restaurant in Santa Clara and a local man (the one looking after his mum on a minimal pension) who introduced us to the 5 peso ice cream bowls!! Win! J



Enjoying our $5CUP ice cream bowls!

4.       Carry both currencies

In Cuba they have 2 currencies – Cuban CUC (pronounced Cook) (1: 1 USD) and the Cuban CUP (national pesos).  They are a lot of things you can only pay with in CUC – accommodation, bus tickets, taxi fares and your departure tax.  Anything else, I guarantee you can find somewhere where you can pay with CUP.  In some places, this price is just the exact exchange value from the CUC price (i.e. for rum, cigarettes and other shopping), but in restaurants this can mean a lot of savings for you.  Always change a decent amount of CUC into CUP (exchange rate at time of writing is 1:24 (CUC:CUP)) and ask to pay in CUP every time.  This leads me to my next tip…

5.       Always ask for the CUP menu at restaurants


Meeting a serenading local in Havana
When you arrive at a restaurant that you see locals in, they most definitely have a CUP menu or “locals” menu.  We discovered a very popular restaurant for locals in Santa Clara, where locals would line up for 2-3 hours for a table.  Being so popular, we thought we’d try it, but when we entered, a serving of lasagne was $5CUC!  For Cubans, this is incredibly expensive for a meal and so we asked to see the National Peso (CUP) menu.  The same serving of lasagne was now only 20CUP (under $1)!  Always ask for the local menu as you pay the local prices! We also managed to get a 3 course meal, including a tip for $2!

6.       Use your Casa Particulares’ expertise

The ladies that run the Casa Particulares know things.  They are the best people to ask about transport around the town, cheap places to eat or drink and also where to stay in the next town! Often they will call and book you a room in the next place and organise pick up from the bus station.  It’s easy, convenient and you know you’re getting a good price! Also, most casas offer cheap breakfast options from $2-5!  It’s normally heartier, tastier and cheaper than what you would find in the street.
We loved our Casa "mum" in Santa Clara! <3
7.       Catch the local buses

Any local buses in Havana costs 40c CUP (0.0125c CUC).  Therefore, look like a local and just pay the bus driver the smallest coin you have.  Locals pay this way too as it’s not often you have 40c CUP in your pocket!! The buses are crowded, sweltering hot and painfully slow but we all know it’s worth it compared to a $5 CUC taxi ride!  

8.       Buy Internet cards where it’s cheapest

Cuba is a country of disconnect.  They have recently got some internet places set up but it’s expensive, slow and often very crowded so you have to wait a while.  So my first sugestion is to avoid internet in general, but if you really need to connect, research the places along your route that offer cheaper internet.  All internet stations and one hotel in Havana that offers wifi (at time of writing) use the same internet cards.  However, in Havana they are $8CUC for an hour, Trinidad $6CUC and Santa Clara $4.50CUC.  Therefore, if you know you’re going to need the internet, buy cards at a cheaper location to take with you to the most expensive places.

9.       Catch route taxis where possible


Catching our first route taxi in Havana
In some places like Havana, they have taxis going back and forward on a route (normally one long street) and will stop to pick you up and take you anywhere you want on the route.  For us, it allowed us to travel from our hostel to the centre (Parque Central) for only $10CUP (under 30c CUC).  It’s cheaper and convenient and you get to travel in those cool 1950’s cars!!

10.   Bring necessities

Bring anything you need for your vacation – soap, deodorant, tampons, etc – with you to Cuba.  Chances are you won’t find them in Cuba to purchase at all and if you do, they are extremely overpriced, so worth the extra weight in the backpack! 
 
11.   You can barter with anything


Even bread was hard to find!...And given it without a bag...
Take cheap sunnies or jewellery, pens/pencils, etc to use to barter with instead of money.  They love everything that they can’t easily buy in Cuba so whatever you have and don’t really need, barter away!  I never tried it as I had nothing to offer but I’ve heard this is a great way to avoid spending extra money.  If anyone does try it, I would love to hear how you went! Good luck! 

12.   Only carry minimal money when trying to barter for something particular

The first price offered for things in Cuba is never the final price, taxis included.  I always figure out how much I want to spend for something and then just take that amount when I’m bartering.  That way, I can show the person that that’s all the money I have and 9 times out of 10, they’ll agree to your price.  I particular find this is useful at the end of your trip when you don’t want to get more money exchanged or out of an ATM.  For example, my last day in Havana and I had to get to the airport – no public transport there exists.  The original price of the taxi was $25CUC.  I managed to only pay $16CUC, just by asking for him to help me as I only had $16CUC left.  Sure enough, no problem!

13.   Carry enough foreign currency for the duration of your trip

ATM’s can be found in the major places but normally only accept VISA and no American Cards whatsoever.  They attract large withdrawals fees and are often out of money or have limited withdrawals amounts, meaning that you often have to go back a couple of times.  To avoid this and save some money, I recommend taking foreign currency with you to exchange at the bank.  The exchange rates are pretty close to the real thing and there are plenty of offices around.  However, DO NOT take US dollars – it attracts a 10% surcharge to exchange and so instead of an almost 1:1 conversion, you get only 88c CUC for every US$1!  Euros and Mexican Pesos are the best currencies to take if you can get your hands on them. 
That’s the summary of the things I found most useful to save some cash while travelling in Cuba.  If you’ve been to Cuba and have some more tips, please comment here so others can read about them.  Prepare yourself for the culture shock, apply these few tips and you’ll have an incredible (and cheap) trip through Cuba!!

Hablamos pronto!
xxxx

 

 

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